You are currently browsing the bartending category.
It is no secret that everyone is trying to stay in shape and cut out as many calories possible out of the diet. If you stop to think about it, when was the last time you saw a commercial for a beer that wasn’t “Lite” or reduced calories? I will bet it has been a while. You will see commercial after commercial for beer celebrating how low they are in calories but still have taste. If you are one of the ever growing number of people that brew your own beer, you might be asking if you can really reduce the calories in your brews and still maintain taste.
Yes, you can, but only to a point.
Beginning the process of reducing calories in your beer batch is going to start off with the sugar you have in the fermentation process. As you know, different recipes are going to require different amount of sugars. So, you can start the process of brewing lower calorie beer by using recipes that require less sugar to ferment. In no case should you try to use artificial sweeteners instead of sugar. Artificial sweeteners are, basically, chemical compounds made to taste sweet. Using anything other than sugar will greatly change the fermentation process which, in turn, will greatly change the taste you are trying to achieve. What comes out at the end of the process might not even be beer!
Another spot to watch in counting calories is the carbohydrates in your malt and hops. If lower calories are your goal, then you can evaluate this when deciding on the recipe in the first place. The process of creating a really good “light” home brew beer lies in the recipe and the ingredients it requires. By visiting the online beer sites you will see a large number of low calorie and low carbohydrate beer. The ingredients have already been selected for their ability to produce a lighter beer.
But please remember that, too be good, beer must go through the fermentation process and, in my opinion, it is not possible to brew a low calorie or low carbohydrate beer with the same richness of taste. Here is another suggestion: Instead of drinking weak beer, simply drink less! You are limiting your calories either way.
Instead of searching the online beer sites for information about home beer making, download the eBook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.
TheBrew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has a money back guarantee, and offers step by step instructions on how to get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.
Author: Jesse L Moore
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Humorous photo captions
Posted September 22nd, 2010. Add a comment
Beer brewing, distribution, and sales are a huge part of the overall U.S. economy and is responsible for literally billions of dollars in wages and taxes. Beer is so important to our national economy that the Federal Government includes it in the list of products used to determine the Consumer Price Index issued by the Bureau of Labor Statistics.
Not counting the home beer brewing enthusiasts, the U.S. has more than 2,000 commercial beer brewers and beer importers and more than 2,800 beer distributors to get the product to market. Brewing industry partners, the retail sellers, are also critical contributors. Again not counting the home brew beer folks, the official beer outlet count is more than 521,000 retail beer selling establishments. This number includes everything from the corner bar and local liquor store to the giant chain stores.
Directly and indirectly, the beer industry employs approximately 1.9 million Americans, with an overall payroll of almost $62 billion in wages and benefits. Further, the industry pays over $41 billion in business, personal and consumption taxes, including $5.4 billion in excise taxes and $5.7 billion in sales, gross receipts, and other taxes. What follows is a snapshot of how beer impacts the economies of just two states.
First, take a look at the state of California. In 2008 the brewing, distribution and retail sales of beer accounted for just a little more than 108,000 jobs in the state paying $3.6 billion in wages. The total economic output of beer in the state is thought to be over $25 billion. Total taxes, local, state, and Federal is estimated at $6 billion. In another, smaller, example, look at Florida. For the same year, 2008, total economic output from beer and its related industries is pegged at $12.3 billion, total jobs at 126,000, and total taxes as $3 billion.
Even in this uneven economy the industry continues to contribute greatly to our economy In 2008, the beer industry recorded 0.5% growth, hitting an all-time record of over 213 million barrels of beer and little, if any, reduction from that number is expected in 2009.
The U.S. consumer’s interest in beers, ales, and other brewed beverages continues to grow. At last count there were more than 3,500 malt beverage brands, which is more than three times the number just 10 years ago. A large part of this amazing increase in brands is due to the growing popularity of local or regional microbreweries and brewpubs (places that sell food and also have brew equipment on site). Currently there are almost five times more places brewing beer commercially than 10 years ago.
Another important, but often overlooked, part of the brewing industry is the increasing number of people learning how to home brew beer themselves. These people are taking advantage of the large number of available brew kits for home beer brewing as they experiment to find their favorite beer recipe. Known collectively as “craft brewers”, these enthusiasts are adding their input into the overall impact of the industry on our economy by purchasing their home brew supplies.
Instead of searching the online beer sites endlessly for information about home beer making, simply download the ebook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.
The Brew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has an iron clad money back guarantee if it does not meet expectations, and offers step by step instructions on how to always get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.
Author: Jesse L Moore
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Android tablet, netbook
Posted September 19th, 2010. Add a comment
Miller Brewing Company launched the first reduced alcohol beer, “Miller Lite” in 1973. Now, almost 40 years later, almost every major and micro brewing company offers a reduced alcohol product and it accounts for an ever growing percentage of the annual 180 million barrel US market.
To be considered a light, or reduced alcohol, beer must contain no more than 3.5% “alcohol by volume” (ABV). This compares with “regular” beer that, generally, contains between 5% and 6%. A recent testing of the best selling US light beer, Bud Light showed it to have about 100 calories in a 12 oz. can compared to about 142 in Budweiser’s regular beer. The spelling “Lite” is a trademark of Miller brewing company and should not be used to refer to reduced alcohol beer in general.
The states of Utah, Oklahoma, Minnesota, Kansas, and Colorado will allow convenience stores and supermarkets to only sell beer with ABV of 3.2%. Higher alcohol content beer may be sold only in liquor stores licensed by the state. Interestingly, Oklahoma further mandates that beer over 3.2% ABV must be sold only at room temperature. Some classify this reduced alcohol beer as “near-beer” but that term originated much earlier, during the prohibition era.
Originally, “near-beer” was a name for malt based beverages with little or no alcoholic content. These brews sprang up as soon as prohibition outlawed the brewing of any alcoholic beverage. These brews were officially classified as “cereal beverages” to distinguish them from the illegal recipes. These brews proved to be popular with the public and about 300 million gallons were produced in the early 1920s and provided a much needed revenue source for many breweries.
One of the most important reasons for near-beer’s popularity was that it was easily spiked with grain alcohol and soon acquired yet another nickname; “needle beer” because of a needle was often used to inject the alcohol through the cork.
Preceding near-beer was “small beer” which was widely produced both in colonial America and even earlier in Europe. Small beer is an extremely low alcohol drink that is flavored with different ingredients such as molasses. It was often served to children and servant along with meals, including breakfast. At the time, it was a safer drink than water because of the brewing process which boiled the wort, which killed the water born diseases of the time such as cholera.
Small beer has fallen out of favor with today’s drinkers and is mostly brewed by home brewers and some microbreweries. However, Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco still produces “Anchor Small Beer” which is listed with an ABV of 3.3%.
Instead of searching the online beer sites endlessly for information about home beer making, simply download the ebook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.
The Brew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has an iron clad money back guarantee if it does not meet expectations, and offers step by step instructions on how to always get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.
Author: Jesse L Moore
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Digital Camera Information
Posted September 16th, 2010. Add a comment
Beer is a drink that is made from grain (usually barley) that is mixed with water, made to ferment by adding a special kind of yeast to it (which turns it into a mixture called malt), and flavored with a plant called hops. The process of making beer is called brewing, and it is one of the most important businesses in the United States. Many people think it is wrong to drink beer, because there is alcohol in it, and alcohol can often be harmful. Many other people say this is not important, because most wines have three or four times as much alcohol as beer, and whiskey has more than ten times as much alcohol. More than half of the adults in the United States drink beer.
But everyone agrees that no one should drink beer until he is grown up. People have been drinking beer for thousands of years. It was known in Egypt more than five thousand years ago. The northern countries, especially Germany and England, became the biggest beer-drinking countries, while in countries farther south, such as France and Italy, wine is a more popular drink. There are many kinds of beer, but in the United States the most important kinds are lager beer and ale. Lager beer is a clear-colored beer that is aged, or stored, for several weeks or months after it is made and before it is sold. Ale is the same kind of beer except that a different kind of yeast is used. Beer is often called “dry.” This means it has very little sugar in it. In America people like dry beer. In some parts of the world people like a sweeter beer. As with any other food or drink, it is all a matter of taste. There are other kinds of beer:
Bock beer, usually made in March or in another early spring month, is dark and sweet. Dark beer, or Munich beer, is a beer very much like bock beer, made all year ’round. Porter is a dark ale with roasted malt added for extra flavor and color. Stout is even darker and maltier than porter. Both porter and stout are most popular in British countries. Any dark beer often has caramel added to it, making it both sweeter and darker.
David is the author of many articles including Best Friend Quotes and also the author of Best life quotes
other articles:
Zodiac Sign Compatibility
Capricorn Traits
Author: David Bunch
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Netbook, Tablets and Mobile Computing
Posted September 13th, 2010. Add a comment
Although beer storage began with wooden casks, today dispensing beer from a metal “keg” is the most popular way of serving beer around the world. Where some smaller breweries still use casks, metal (most often stainless steel) kegs have significant advantages in storing, transporting, and serving the beer. Primarily they are pressurized with carbon Dioxide (CO2). This pressurization forces the beer out of the tap (or faucet). Occasionally, some beers are served with a nitrogen/carbon dioxide mix because nitrogen produces smaller bubbles in the beer which, in turn, creates a very dense and creamy head. Have you ever heard of “beer balls”? These are smaller, disposable kegs used in some areas of the world.
If you have ever wondered, a “full keg” in the U.S. refers to a metal cylinder that contains between 15.5 gallons of beer. This is equal of almost seven cases (6.9 if you do the math) or 165 twelve ounce cans. When full the keg weighs in at 160.5 pounds. Given the empty weight of 30 pounds, the weight of the beer is just about 131 pounds.
A modern keg has just a single opening on one end. A tube called a “spear” reaches from that opening to the other end. A self-closing valve is opened by the coupling fitting which is attached when the keg is tapped. There is also an outlet at the top of the spear that allows the pressurizing gas to drive the beer out of the keg. The coupling fitting has one or two valves that control the flow of beer out of and gas into the keg. The keg must be in the upright position, with the opening on top for the beer to be dispensed.
Generally there are just two different types of taps available for kegs, party pumps and gas taps. Using “party” pumps utilize outside air, which introduces both oxygen and bacteria inside the keg which cause the beer to oxidize, creating a very unpleasant taste. So you are on notice; the keg of home brew you tap for a party should be used within 18-24 hours or the beer will become undrinkable. Gas pumps are much more expensive and normally use CO2, if you use a gas pump and keep the beer cold you can preserve a keg up to 120 days with proper refrigeration.
Just like any other pressurized container, working with a keg can easily cause injury, even at normal operating pressure, whether with normal compressed air or carbon dioxide. A “Quarter Barrel” (here in the U.S. we know it as a “Pony Keg”), holds about 7.75 U.S. gallons of beer. A pony keg is just half the size of the standard beer keg holds the equivalent of 82 twelve ounce cans. Being so much smaller is it much easier to handle and is often a good choice for a smaller get together. This is often the size of container used by people who brew beer a home.
Both the full keg and the pony keg have some disadvantages for the home user. If purchased commercially, both will usually require a refundable deposit to the retailer and both require the use of a tap to get the beer out of the barrel. Also it can be very difficult to determine how much is left in the container. This problem is most often solved by either weighing the container or checking its buoyancy in a tub of water.
Instead of searching the online beer sites endlessly for information about home beer making, simply download the ebook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.
TheBrew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has an iron clad money back guarantee if it does not meet expectations, and offers step by step instructions on how to always get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.
Author: Jesse L Moore
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Digital TV, HDTV, Satellite TV
Posted September 10th, 2010. Add a comment
Homebrewing beer is attaining great popularity especially since the availability of beer kits. You too should join this growing vibrant community. Here`s why you need to start homebrewing beer.
Fun and exciting: Homebrewing is fun and addictive. Put together water malt extract, yeast, hops and voila, you have frothy, foamy beer. Brewing especially in a regular group is a fun social occasion. There are a large number of beer clubs which one can join. Check out the one in your neighborhood today. To ardent homebrewers brewing is less of a hobby and more of a lifestyle.
Relatively easy: The use of beer kits in homebrewing has greatly simplified the brewing process. The initial cumbersome process of malting,mashing and lautering are done by the brewery. The malt extract is then packaged into beer kits and sold for homebrewing beer. It is easier for the rookie brewer to get started with much less equipment. One can always graduate to bigger things like all grain brewing later if one so desires.
Cost benefits: Homebrewing beer can be a cost effective hobby. This is especially so if you compare it to well made craft beers at the store. Apart from minimum start up costs for the basic equipment there are few costs to homebrew. All grain brewing can further bring down the costs as you can buy ingredients in bulk. You can share and gift your brew. And yes you learn a valuable skill which can be useful in a bad economy.
Ready to get going? Get some great help here http://www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-homemade-beer.
Hema M is a longtime brewing enthusiast. Nothing gets her creative juices flowing like a good home brew.
Author: Hema M
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Android phones
Posted September 4th, 2010. Add a comment
So you want to brew your own beer? It’s easier than you think with a Mr. Beer Brewing Kit. The main requirements are clean working conditions (very important), following directions, and patience, Patience, PATIENCE!!
The first two requirements are critical, but if you want a good, clean, tasty beer after spending the time to brew it, you need to exercise patience. Yes, you can have home brewed beer in two weeks, but I HIGHLY RECOMMEND You wait Four Weeks. Well, at least three and a half, that’s how long I waited to try mine. 
First, let’s run through the brewing process and check out the ingredients, instructions and equipment provided by Mr. Beer.
My first Mr. Beer batch was the West Coast Pale Ale, one of their Standard Brew Packs. It included a can of hopped liquid malt extract, a pouch of Booster(TM) (they can trademark Booster?) and a packet of dry brewing yeast. Don’t panic like I did when you discover that the yeast packets are not in the shipping carton, they’re conveniently stowed under the plastic lid on each can of malt extract.
The Boil…
The Mr. Beer brewing process will last approximately 15 minutes once the water is up to temp. Begin heating the water and as it warms stir in and dissolve the Booster(TM), once it reaches a boil you can turn off the heat and begin stirring in the malt extract (what they call the “beer mix”) until it is fully dissolved.
Why such a short boil? In extract brewing where raw hops are added a full 60 minute boil is required so the brewer can introduce specific amounts of hops along the way to achieve the desired result. In the case of the hopped malt extracts included with the Mr. Beer ingredient kit this step is already done for us, there is no need to do anything but fully dissolve the fermentables so the yeast has something to munch on to produce the alcohol.
Once the sugars are all dissolved what you have is called the wort, pronounced “wert.” Next you will add your wort to the 4 quarts of cool water already in the keg fermenter (follow the Mr. Beer directions). Add more cool water to bring it to the 8.5 quart mark. I suggest filtered tap water that has been cooled in the fridge, stir it up good. I put the cap on and sloshed it a bit back and forth too, but be careful, the cap is not air tight. Which brings us to…
Fermenting Mr. Beer… No Airlock?
Why is there no airlock on the Mr. Beer fermenter? I’d like to address this because it may raise concerns among home brewers as an open door to contamination. Two small notches in the lip of the fermenter allow carbon dioxide gas to escape, which creates a positive flow of of gas outward from beneath the lid, for most of the fermentation process. The big lid which screws onto the lip of the fermenter provides adequate protection from foreign material and any microorganisms that could potentially take up residence in the fermenting brew.
Microorganisms don’t fly around looking for stuff, and they aren’t going to slither up the side of your fermenter looking for a way in. If you’re work area is clean, the fermenter is clean, you didn’t get any nasties onto the lip of the fermenter, AND you leave it covered for the duration of fermentation, you’ll be fine. NO PEEKING!
If you want to see what’s going on in the fermenter, scale up and buy a glass carboy. The Mr. Brew fermenting keg is dark brown for a reason, yeast works better in the dark. To make your yeast happier yet, keep the fermenter in a dark location, and at a relatively consistent temperature, between 68-76 degrees F according to the Mr. Beer directions. Though I have successfully fermented brews at 65°, right around 70° is the standard. A slight drift high or low, by a couple of degrees, will not mess things up.
Bottling…
Leaving your beer alone for at least two weeks in the fermenter is critical to allow as much settling as possible. You will bottle a clear beer, but there will still be enough yeast remaining to produce sufficient carbonation.
As a result, after two weeks in the bottle you will see a very light layer of sediment. The sediment was so miniscule in my final brews, literally just a dusting, that I was able to enjoy a beer right out of the bottle! Of course, to fully appreciate your home brewed ale you should pour it into the proper glass.
Brewing with liquid extracts in general results in a very clear beer, with a fine layer of sediment at the bottom. If you’re seeing a thick bed of white schmutz on the bottom of your bottle, wait longer before bottling next time.
I used standard 12 oz. pop-top bottles that I save when I buy my favorite micro-brewed ales, but you can pick up a Mr. Beer Deluxe Bottling System for about $15. That system includes 8, 20 oz. plastic bottles, so you’ll have to buy two sets in order to bottle your whole batch. You’d probably get about 10-12 of those 20 oz. bottles filled, and have a few extras just in case (no pun intended). I got about 18 12 oz. bottles out of my batch.
The Result…
My final beer weighed in at around 3.3% just prior to bottling. At first I thought something had gone wrong but Mr. Beer states that the final ABV should be around 3.7%, under optimum conditions. So I was close enough.
The beer pours a nice pale golden color, has a nice malty nose and a smooth mouthfeel before giving way to a pleasant hop bitterness at the end. As it sat in the glass it became a little fuller in flavor, given some time to “breathe.”
It did have that mild homebrewiness to it, but I find that maximum time in the fermenter keeps that to a minimum by reducing the amount of trub the beer will sit on in the bottle.
One disappointment was the rather short lived head. I had to pour rather aggressively to acheive one in the first place, and it only lasted about 15 seconds. The carbonation is a bit inconsistent due to the addition of priming sugar to each bottle, in dry form, prior to bottling.
A typical priming situation involves dissolving dry malt extract or corn sugar into a small amount of water and stirring that solution thoroughly into the fermented beer before bottling, which results in more consistent carbonation.
One suggestion for priming with a Mr. Beer set up would be to dissolve no more than 3/8 of a cup of priming sugar (you can use confectioner’s corn sugar) into 1 pint of hot water. Let it cool then divide evenly among the bottles before bottling the beer, just about 1/2 ounce per bottle should do it. This will help you get an even amount of priming sugar into each one, resulting in even carbonation. Better this than adding the dry sugar to each bottle and hoping it all dissolves into the cool wort.
You can estimate how much to add by measuring a 1/2 ounce of water and seeing how far up it goes in the bottle, then just add this much of the sugar mix to each bottle before adding the wort. It will mix as the wort flows in, but feel free to swirl it a bit as it fills. By the way, you can trust my measurements, I did the math.
In Conclusion…
I titled this post “Mr. Beer – Good Beginner Brewing Kit” but in fact it is a great kit to keep around and reuse, even for the more advanced brewer. The Mr. Beer kit offers a quick, convenient, and virtually hassle-free way to make very good tasting beer over and over again. I highly recommend it for anyone who’d like to give home brewing a try, but doesn’t know where to start. This is a great way to get your feet wet, and learn the basics of the home brewing process.
Happy Brewing!
Drew Vics writes articles on beer brewing and other beer related topics for Cryptobrewology.com
Author: Drew Vics
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Cellphone, mobile phone
Posted September 1st, 2010. Add a comment
Some people prefer to buy their beer from the supermarket, and some people to take it down at the local bar/ pub/ nightclub etc. along with the local wildlife. Whichever way you look at it though, beer is a favorite amongst many people so it’s really not surprising that some people have taken to brewing beer on their own initiative.
And although these aren’t to be found for sale in any of the above mentioned places, or anywhere else for that matter, it is a true fact that these people are justly proud of their beer brewing attempts. It is also true that by brewing beer yourself, you run the risk of falling into a very risky trap, that of becoming so interested in your subject matter that you give up just about anything that could be called a life, and devote your entire time to brewing that perfect batch of beer.
Well, okay, they won’t necessarily go that far in their brewing beer attempts, but some people can become pretty singular when trying to find their own particular beer oriented philosopher’s stone. All of which besides, it does become pretty fascinating at times to find yourself taking the first sip of your own homemade beer.
In actual fact brewing beer yourself at home is quite easy. The problems mainly come when you progress through those first stages of admittedly crude beer brewing methods and come to the realization that, hey, you really can make a passable and sometimes more than passable beer. What all this heralds is the beginning of your end as your mind turns to brewing beer that has the perfect taste.
The thing about brewing beer at home is that it can become very messy if you’re into experimenting. After all, you don’t expect that lack of space will stop you from bringing more brewing supplies home, not when you had this marvelous idea to create the perfect taste combination.
Who knows you might end up the next Carlsberg or Heineken or Coors or Budweiser. They also had to start from somewhere and not a single one of them had any idea about brewing beer before they got into the business in whatever way they could.
So the next time people stare and goggle in surprise when you happen to casually mention that brewing beer is your own little hobby, give them a wide grin and invite them on over for a cold one – who knows, you might find you and your beer going places if you just happen to catch the interest of the right people. Cheers!
Personally - I use Coopers Home Brewing Kit – they offer a COMPLETE home kit for about $99 bucks I think, and usually offer various ‘free shipping’ promotions for whatever holiday is near.
I used them for my first time 1 1/2 years ago, and I’ve gotta say – I’m a kick butt brew master! 
For more information – please see-
http://how-to-make-beer-at-home.info/
Author: Jeff Lenney
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Digital Camera Information
How often do you pay any attention to the glass beer mug you drink your beer from? If you think about it at all it’s probably just to check that nothing is growing in the bottom of the glass and that there isn’t any visible dirt sticking anywhere. After all, as one who home brews their own beer, the focus is on the suds and not on the glass.
This is so wrong on so many levels! The beer glass, formally know as “beer glassware”, performs an unsung but vitally important function in how much you enjoy that tall, cold one after a long day at work. There are many, many different types of beer glassware, each with its own shape designed to be used with a specific type of beer. Here is a list of the most common types of beer glassware and the types of beer they are associated with. Utilizing the beer glass developed for the type of beer you are brewing will do wonders to enhance your drinking experience.
Beer Stein: The stein is, traditionally, German. It is typically a very heavy container made from silver, pewter, porcelain, or even wood. It is often heavily decorated with elaborate scrolling and other decorations including precious or semi-precious stones. Most often it is equipped with an attached lid the drinker can raise with his thumb. The lid came about during the 1300s in response to the “Black Plague” to stop disease carrying flies from getting into the beer.
Steins were developed for use with the heavy German beers of the period. Today, because of their weight, they are more often collected and displayed than used for drinking.
Wheat Beer Glass: Made to enhance the enjoyment of “wheat beer” brewed with high concentrations of malted barley. Like the stein, this shape was also developed in Germany and is also known as a “Weizenbier”. This is a large glass, usually holding about 18 ounces although some can be as small as half that. The glass itself is tall, very narrow at the bottom and very wide at the top. The wide mouth allows room for a thick head that contains the aroma and is very nice to look at.
Pilsner Glass: Designed to be used with “pilsner” beers. These are tall, with a shape that evenly tapers from a wider mouth to a narrower base with no curves. The shape of the Pilsner glass provides a stage for the light, gold color of the traditional pilsner beer while the wide mouth allows formation of a foamy head to keep in the flavor and aroma of the hops.
Flute Glass: This glass is most often associated with sparkling wines like Champagne but is also often used for Belgian lambic beers and beers flavored with fruit.
Pint Glass: Most often associated with the English pub, the pint glass contains 1 imperial pint and is used to serve English ales and stouts. It is rather short, with a mouth just a bit larger than the base.
Tulip Glass: This is another glass originally made for white wine. It is shaped with the rim of the glass is not as large as the mid point. For beer drinkers, this shape does an excellent job of trapping the rich aroma and thick head of beers such as Scottish and Belgian ales.
Stange and Becher: These are both cylindrical glasses and are most often used to serve Kolsch or Altbier type beers. Both hold about the same amount, but the Becher is shorter and fatter than the Stange.
Yard Glass: So called because it stands about a yard (3 feet) high, the glass has a bulb at the bottom and a shaft that becomes continually wider towards the rim. Because of its height, it is not stable and is most commonly hung on a wall when not being used. This glass probably originated in 17th Century England and was as much more a testament to the glassblower who created it than anyone drinking from it.
Today, it is most often used in drinking games and not by serious beer drinkers.
When your next batch of home brew is ready for sampling, you now know which type of beer glass will be best used to enhance your drinking pleasure.
Instead of searching the online beer sites endlessly for information about home beer making, simply download the ebook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.
The Brew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has an iron clad money back guarantee if it does not meet expectations, and offers step by step instructions on how to always get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.
Author: Jesse L Moore
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Digital Camera News
Before the Eighteenth Amendment (prohibition) was ratified in 1919 thousands of breweries in the U.S. successfully brewed beer. Most was much heavier than the beer we drink today. With the onset of prohibition many of these breweries shut down as their markets ceased to exist. Some were successful in converting to bottling soft drinks or other businesses. These businesses included, in some cases, secretly supplying beer to the black market. Not surprisingly, this bootlegged beer was often watered down to increase profits. This was the beginning of a trend of the American beer drinker preferring lighter tasting beers. After the repeal of prohibition in 1933 less than half this number of breweries reopened. In the years since then, consolidation of breweries and the application of industrial quality control standards have led to the mass-production and the mass-marketing of the light lagers American drinkers now prefer. Large brewing companies bought their rivals, often just for their customers and distribution systems and would shut down their brewing operations. Especially since WW II, advertising, whether TV, print, or radio has become even more important in selling beer and the bigger companies had the deep pockets to take advantage. Since about the 1980s smaller brewing companies, including the microbreweries or “craft brewers” as they are sometime known and brands imported from overseas have become more important in the U.S. market. In fact, by 1997 there were more breweries in business in the U.S. than in Germany. A recent count put the number of breweries of all types operating in the U.S. at almost 1400.
As you would suspect most European nations have brewing traditions dating back as far as can be researched. Domestic brands of beer are especially important drinks in Belgium, Germany, Ireland, and the United Kingdom, Other European nations like France, the Scandinavian countries, and the Czech Republic, also have strong and unique brewing traditions with their own history, characteristic brewing methods, and styles of beer. Europe also boasts a large market for unfiltered, unpasteurized beer containing live yeast. Most of the rest of the world (including the U.S.) prefers their beer filtered. These brews are much more difficult to store and ship compared to the more common filtered beers. But, a great many Europeans just prefer the taste of a “live” beer. Most beer is matured for relatively short times (a few weeks to a few months) compared to wine, but some of the stronger ales develop character and flavor for a much longer time. If they are left unopened, and kept under the right conditions, some ales will continue to age gracefully for several years.
Some breweries that began as very small business have developed into huge multinational companies selling dozens of brands around the globe. There are also many thousands of smaller producers in the business of brewing and selling beer, from regional breweries to microbreweries who often sell their product in a single store front tavern. Technical advances in refrigeration, increased speed and reliability in international and transcontinental shipping, as well as more sophisticated marketing and advertising have all resulted in a vibrant international marketplace, with hundreds of choices between various styles of local, regional, national and foreign beers. Modern breweries are now able to brew many different types of beer and traditional brewing techniques have been highly automated and are still used to help maintain the taste of the final brew. In spite of this attempt at maintaining historical taste quality, many serious beer drinkers prefer to home brew their own beer to get the quality they desire. Some smaller, more traditional brewers have been very reluctant to embrace new technology for this same fear of losing the traditional taste characteristics of their beer. A good example of this are the Belgian “lamibic” beers which expose the brew recipe to outside air to include the natural “wild” yeasts, said to exist only in the Senne valley, in the fermentation process. This traditional brewing technique leaves the beer to ferment for up to three years. This process allows a waxy cap to form on top of the recipe with gives the brew some protection from oxidation.
Instead of searching the online beer sites endlessly for information about home beer making, simply download the ebook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.
The Brew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has an iron clad money back guarantee if it does not meet expectations, and offers step by step instructions on how to always get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.
Author: Jesse L Moore
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Panasonic Lumix G2
